Film Developer

I use Kodak's "D-76" developer. Ilford's "ID-11" is virtually the same product, so you can use identical development times. As far as I know, Kodak's "D-76" is only available in powdered form, while Ilford's "ID-11" is a premixed concentrate in a bottle. You must mix Kodak's product in a pail of very hot water and then cool and store it in a tightly stoppered bottle. Ilford and other manufacturers have liquid concentrates available. Personal preference here - use whatever you are comfortable with or have been recommended to use.

There are many other developers available.

• Dilution Rate - I prefer to use Kodak's "D-76" or Ilford's "ID-11" at a 1:1 dilution (1 part stock solution to 1 part water) - this will give you negatives that have a finer grain than if you had used full strength developer.

• Capacity - You will need as much solution as your processing tanks instructions state - typically 10 ounces of working solution per roll of 35 mm film. Discard after use.

Stop Bath

Used to neutralize the developer solution that remains on the film after the development time has elapsed. Pour the dilute stop bath into the processing tank after the developer has been poured from the tank. "Indicator" type stop bath can be used for both film and prints.

• Dilution Rate - Mix a 'working' solution at a concentration of 1:31 (1 part stop bath to 31 parts water). Purchase any brand of "indicator stop" - use the same amount of working solution that you used for the developer - usually 10 ounces per roll of 35 mm film)(solution should be a pale yellow color). The amount of stop that you add to the water here is a little bit more critical than when you are doing print processing.

• Capacity - A few drops in 10 ounces of water per roll of 35 mm film is typical. Discard after use.

Fixer - (Also called Hypo)

Used to dissolve any remaining light sensitive silver from the processed film - hence fixing or stabilizing the emulsion. A "hardening" fixer is generally recognized as the best for film to avoid later scratches, while a non-hardening fixer is generally used for print making. I use a non-hardening fixer for both film and print and it works well for me - I have not had any problems with scratched negatives. Its much cheaper and easier to work with one type of fixer.

• Dilution Rate - 1:4 (1 part stock fixer to 4 parts of water)

• Capacity - Save this fixer after use - just invert your development tank over a funnel inserted into your jug of "working solution" fixer, which you use for print processing.

Hypo Clearing Agent

Rinsing your film in water for 30 seconds, and then in Hypo Clearing Agent for 1-2 minutes prior to final washing will allow you to reduce your wash time from 20 to 30 minutes down to 5 minutes of total washing - a great saving in water and time!

• Dilution Rate - About 1:4 (1 part stock clearing agent to 4 parts water)

• Capacity - Discard working solution after use.

"Wetting Agent"

Kodak "Photo-Flo". After washing your film, add a couple of drops (2 or 3 drops to a film tank full of water) to your wash water and briefly rinse your film in the solution. This treatment will allow the film, while hanging, to drip dry without any water spots.

If you have hard water, then use distilled water for this final step, otherwise you may end up with scum on your dried film.

"Chemical Disposal"

See Kodaks website for a comprehensive look at Waste Management

See Kodaks website for a comprehensive look at Silver Management